Wrigleyville restaurant goes green

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Performers at Uncommon Ground / Photo by Stacy Warden
BY STACY WARDEN
November 12, 2007 | 5:00 PM

It is a Thursday night in Wrigleyville and a standing room only crowd has come to the Uncommon Ground restaurant to sample owners Helen and Michael Cameron's idea of good food.

Except for the wine, almost nothing comes from farther away than Indiana, Michigan or Wisconsin.

That is the idea behind the couple's monthly "Green Room Sessions" an event where an array of complimentary appetizers highlights the restaurant's focus on seasonal, regional and organic food.

Local musicians, business owners and food lovers crowd the restaurant's back room at 3800 North Clark Street to engage in all things local.

The event, which has grown in popularity since its inception in April, is a joint effort by the Camerons and Live It Green, a Chicago-based company focused on sustainable products.

Each session highlights the product of a different local farmer, a local musician and a "green" organization-complete with free appetizers and $5 martini specials.

The sessions are designed to help promote local businesses and environmental issues in an untraditional way. Hans Fedderke, founder of Live It Green said the Green Room Sessions are unique because of their low-key approach to educating people about the virtues of locally-grown food.

"A lot of green groups are too exclusive - we're trying to change that," he said. "Even if you drive your Hummer here you might catch something."

Kirk Fox, who scouts musicians for the event, kicks things off by introducing the first act of the evening. Representatives from the featured organization get a chance to tell the audience what they're about between sets. During all of the commotion, a diverse crowd mingles and samples farm-fresh food.

"It's a sustainable carnival," said Fox.

Chicago native Chris Holinger agrees. He has attended several sessions and said it's a great way to bring  like-minded people together.

"It gets people speaking the same language," he said.

Advertising for the Green Room Sessions is done through the restaurant's mailing list, as well as Live It Green. "The rest is word of mouth," said Fox.

Chef Brian Millman said the event is chance for customers to learn what local farmers are producing.

"We care about our food, where it comes from, the impact we have on our environment and we love to share that with our customers," he said.

Farmer Beth Eccles of Green Acres Farm in North Judson, Ind. has been working with Uncommon Ground since 2006. Eccles hasn't had the chance to attend a session yet, but said the event is a unique opportunity.

"I don't know of any other restaurants that are doing anything like this. Events like this would usually be very expensive," she said.

Eccles sells her produce at Green City Market in Lincoln Park and said Millman never misses an opportunity to stock up on the local fare. She said she's impressed with the restaurant's dedication to farm-fresh local food.

"There are the ones (chefs) that hit it really hard when all of the little trendy things come out in the summer and then they're gone- but these guys are with us from the beginning right until the very end," she said.

Eccles encourages people to choose restaurants that use local food. "What you're eating in the off season might be coming from California-or farther-and loses its nutritional value, and most of the time you're supporting economies that aren't even in this country," she said.

Eccles is one of many farmers providing Uncommon Ground with fresh produce, Millman said.

"We cook seasonally and most of our specials include as many farmers as possible," he said.

This month's Green Room Session featured Capriole Farms. Four different appetizers were passed around using Capriole's goat cheese. The dishes ranged from savory brioche with duck liver pate and Sofia goat cheese topped with pickled radish and toasted pine nuts to a sweet cashew-encrusted goat cheese gelato.

Millman said he tries to create dishes that are unique but appeal to a variety of tastes. "It's about the texture and the taste," he said.

Alyson Sowers of Heifer International said she enjoyed all of the appetizers as well as the goat cheese pizza she ordered earlier in the evening.

"Is it possible to have too much goat cheese in one night?" she asked.

Sowers said her organization is looking forward to participating in next month's session. "What they're doing can really create change," she said.

Audience member Jake Chandler said he came to support the local musicians. A newcomer to the event, Chandler found it to be "hectic, but cool."

Chandler, who plays bass with a local band, said he would like the chance to perform during a Green Room Session. He is not alone. Fox said musicians and sustainable organizations are now seeking out Uncommon Ground to play the event.

"This is the best room for acoustics in Chicago," said Fox.

Jen Woodhouse, a singer and guitar player who was the evening's first act, agreed. "We really wanted to play this room. It's a great singing room," she said.

The event is held every second Thursday at 7 p.m.

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